I’ve fed entire litters and groups of adult Bullmastiffs for decades, and one thing I’ve learned the hard way is that mealtime can either be calm and efficient or the spark that ignites resource guarding and fights. In this post I’ll share the mealtime setups, timing strategies and safe solutions I use at Shadowguard Bullmastiffs to keep feeding times peaceful — whether you have two dogs or a dozen.

Why bullmastiffs can fight at mealtimes

Bullmastiffs are loyal, confident and food-motivated. Those traits make them wonderful companions, but they also mean a dog that perceives competition at the bowl may act to secure food. From my experience working with breeders and rescued dogs, the common triggers are:

  • Close proximity of bowls (visual competition)
  • Fast eaters and slow eaters in the same group
  • Food stealing or bowl guarding learned early
  • Inconsistent routines that cause anxiety
  • High-value treats or raw-feeding added without safeguards

    • Understanding the trigger is the first step to preventing fights. Once you know whether the issue is speed, space or scarcity, you can choose the right strategy.

    My basic mealtime principles

    I follow a few non-negotiable rules for every feeding session:

  • Predictability: Dogs thrive on routine. Feed at roughly the same times each day.
  • Separation: If a dog shows any guarding behaviour, separate during meals until retraining is complete.
  • Matching portions to the dog: Adjust meal size and texture so dogs aren’t frustrated or overfocused on others' bowls.
  • Management before training: If you’re dealing with aggression, manage the environment first — then train.

    • Physical setups that work

    Choose a setup based on your number of dogs, your space and their personalities. Here are the systems I’ve used successfully.

    Separate rooms

    When I had multiple bitches in whelp and a few adoptees in for rehabilitation, feeding in separate rooms was the most reliable method. Close a door or use baby gates to create temporary feeding rooms. This eliminates visual triggers. It’s not glamorous, but it works.

    Gated hallway lineup

    For two to four dogs, I often feed in a hallway with baby gates spaced so each dog has their own feeding niche. The gates create a visual barrier while allowing me to monitor them. I use sturdy metal gates (for example, Carlsons or Regalo) because Bullmastiffs can test flimsy plastic ones.

    Crate or mat separation

    Crates can be useful if your dogs are comfortable and crate-trained. Place bowls at the open crate door and allow each dog to eat inside. Alternatively, give each dog a designated mat and call them to their mat before placing the bowl. Mat work builds calm focus and a strong “place” cue.

    Elevated or hidden feeding stations

    For very food-driven dogs, elevated bowls or feeding in different parts of the room help. I’ve also used feeding stations behind a couch or a low table to obscure bowls from each other — simple, but it reduces the temptation to steal.

    Timing strategies: when and how to feed

    Timing affects behaviour as much as physical separation. Here’s the timing framework I use:

  • Two meals per day for adult Bullmastiffs is typical: morning and evening. Keep times consistent within 30–60 minutes.
  • Pre-feeding calm time: Ask for a 5–10 minute calm period before placing bowls. Use sit, down, or settle on a mat.
  • Rotate feeding order: If one dog always eats first, rotate the order occasionally to build tolerance and reduce possessiveness.
  • Supervise the first minute: Many problems happen fast. Supervise the initial 60–90 seconds when dogs are most likely to react.

    • Feeding tools and tricks

    These are my go-to tools for safer meals:

  • Slow feeders and puzzle mats: Kong Wobbler, Nina Ottosson puzzles, slow-feeder bowls. These stretch out eating time so fast eaters don’t finish and then bother others.
  • Non-slip heavy bowls: Heavy ceramic or stainless bowls that don’t tip reduce aggression over moving bowls.
  • Automatic feeders: For multi-dog homes where schedules are tight, programmable feeders (e.g., PetSafe Smart Feed) can dispense into separate bowls to stagger access.
  • Calm cues and enrichment: Scatter feeding or frozen Kongs before meal service can occupy eager mouths and lower arousal.

    • Dealing with resource guarding safely

    If a dog shows resource guarding — stiffening, growling, snapping — take immediate management steps and then start a behaviour plan.

  • Immediate management: Remove high-value food, separate dogs, and keep a safe distance. Don’t punish — that can escalate fear and guarding.
  • Veterinary check: Rule out pain or medical issues that can increase guarding behaviour.
  • Counterconditioning and desensitization: I use a slow, reward-based program where the dog learns that a human approaching the bowl predicts better food, not a loss. Start from a distance where the dog stays relaxed. Toss high-value treats (small bits of chicken or cheese) into the bowl while the dog eats, so presence = more reward.
  • Trade and leave-it: Teach a reliable trade (you give a lower-value item in exchange for a higher-value treat) and a solid leave-it/ drop cue. Practice away from the feeding context first.
  • Professional help: For severe guarding, work with a qualified force-free behaviourist. I’ve referred several cases to the UK’s APDT or to vets trained in behaviour medicine; it’s worth the investment.

    • Training exercises I use

    Below are simple exercises I run through with new or problematic dogs. Each session is brief but consistent.

  • Place-and-wait: Send the dog to a mat, reward calm behaviour, then place the bowl. Gradually increase the time before release. This builds impulse control.
  • Hand-feeding and approach work: Feed kibble by hand, then slowly practice touching the bowl edge, then the dog’s shoulder while feeding. Always work below the threshold where the dog shows stress.
  • Parallel feeding: Feed two dogs at a comfortable distance, slowly decreasing distance over days as long as both remain relaxed.

    • Example feeding schedule and setups

    Situation Setup When to use
    Two calm adults Parallel mats 2–3m apart, bowls placed simultaneously Regular daily feeding
    One fast eater + one slow eater Slow feeder for fast dog + separate room for slow dog Prevent stealing and bullying
    Rescue dog with guarding history Crate separation + hand-feeding + behaviour plan Initial rehabilitation phase
    Large multi-dog household Staggered auto-feeders or crate line-up with supervised release Large numbers or limited space

    Real-life example from Shadowguard

    We had a rescue male, “Rufus,” who lunged at the other dogs if they came near his bowl. I separated him and started with hand-feeding and a “bowl approach” desensitization: I would toss a tiny, higher-value treat into his bowl when a helper walked in the room. Over two months, Rufus went from stiff guarding to accepting a person near his bowl — and eventually to eating calmly with a mat-signal. Management plus a slow, consistent training plan made the difference.

    If you want, tell me how many dogs you have, their feeding personalities (fast, slow, guarder) and your space constraints, and I’ll suggest a specific setup you can try at home.